• Standard French doors are more energy efficient
• It would be easier to convert the lower level to a living space at some point in the future.
• It will help the appraisal – apprasers, lenders, and just about everyone else sees the roll-up door and thinks “Garage!” The French doors say, “house” which has a higher value

Here’s a few renderings:

Reasonably affordable (a four-door set is $150 here)

Pardon the hideous photo. The marketing department of these door companies are a little behind the times

Read more here.

Some important points:

• Condensor run (zig zag at beginning of run) should be approximately 25′ long.
• Main line should drop 1″ for every 10′ to allow water to run out.
• Main line – 1/2″. Drops can be 3/8″
• Each drop should have its own, independent shutoff, regulator, and filter (and a self-oiler if designed to run pneumatic tools)
• Sandor recommends galvanized pipe and suggests staying clear of PVC

Layout Options

A major component of shop design is dust collection. Where to route ducting, how to place the dust collector, etc. Here’s three examples of duct placement (graphics from Fine Woodworking, “Tools and Shops,” Winter 2006/2007).

Running Ductwork

Ducting should be run with 45 degree elbows and smooth, radius curved for 90 degree bends. See this photo for an example (Photo from “Setting Up Shop” by Sandor Nagyszalanczy):

Furthermore, the author recommends using metal snap-lock HVAC pipe for his system (24-26 gauge , not thinner 30 gauge stove pipe)

Cyclone Placement

In addition to layout considerations, placement of the collector should be taken into consideration. Dust collectors are NOISY. One solution is to put the collector in a separate room, or even outside. The only drawback to outdoor placement is that you’re putting heated air outside – a poor choice for saving energy. In any case, here’s one such solution (Photo from “Setting Up Shop” by Sandor Nagyszalanczy):

A variation on this model is to place the cyclone outside, while locating the “bag house” (the filters that return the air) inside the shop. This cuts down on noise AND returns warm air to the shop.

Determining Main Duct Size

CFM and Duct Diameters of Common Machines

How big do I need my cyclone to be?

Well, according to Fine Woodworking, “Tools and Shops,” the length of your run , number of elbows, and size of machines determines how large a cyclone you need. Here’s a chart illustrating their recommendations:

Powering it up

Sandor and others recommend using some sort of remote control for turning on the dust collector and I agree – it’s a great idea. There are both aftermarket items that go between the cyclone and the plug, as well as switches that are hard-wired into the electrical junction box. These switches turn on any time you fire up a machine that uses dust control. Neat!

What does it cost?

Fine Woodworking, “Tools and Shops” says that a powerful, 2-stage collector will run between $750-$1200. Ducting costs are unknown at this point, but the article says that $2000 should allow plenty of money for the cyclone and ducting.
Dust Collector Models and Prices:

• 2HP JDS Two-stage model
• 3HP Oneida Dust Gorilla (27″ x 51.4″)

• David Marks wood studio
• Norm Abrams New Yankee Workshop
• Oakridge Studio – approx 800 sq ft studio.

Taken from “Setting Up Shop” by Sandor Nagyszalanczy.

Some comments and suggestions from the book include running tools at 200v instead of 110v (if rewiring is an option). The reason for this is that 220v machines run at half the amperage of 110v motors. Another recommendation is to locate outlets at between 42-50″ high on the wall. 42″ will clear workbenches, while 50″ will allow a sheet of plywood to fit under the outlet – nice!

Getting Power to Machinery

Routing power to shop machines can be tricky with slab-on-grade construction, especially for machines located in the middle of the space. Here’s two ways to handle it:

Most books recommend putting floor-mounted pugs in a raised box – this helps prevent accidental shorts and sawdust collecting in the plug holes. However, I’m not a fan of metal boxes popping out of the floor. It’s easy to trip on them, and if you ever move a machine, the plug can present a real obstacle. Plus, if you ever wanted to convert the space to “open living,” these pop-up plugs would be ugly.

I prefer the drop-down model or a brass, covered plate (especially if the floor is stained concrete)

Calculating Power Needs

In order to determine the size of the shop sub-panel, it’s a good idea to figure the individual amperage of machines used in the shop. Factor in the reality that some machines will run concurrently (like table saws and jointers) and thus should be on separate circuits. It’s also a good idea to put the lights on their own dedicated circuit so that a tripped saw breaker doesn’t leave you in total darkness. Here’s a chart of some common shop tools and their amperage:

* indicates tool not currently owned

Determining Amperage based on Horsepower

Here’s a handy chart to help determine the power needs based on the horsepower and voltage. Amperage estimates are approximate:

1. “Mechanical room” for air compressor and dust collection. Requires ventilation an 220v power for both machines
2. 110v electric drops in ceiling
3. Duct work for dust collection
4. 220v power for table saw, planer and joiner (currently they are 110v but can be rewired). Route cords through floor or ceiling
5. Compressed air lines
6. “Clean Area” office space
7. Deep sink
8. Roll-up door and patio/work area for large projects and outdoor work
9. If possible, a way to spray finishes and other materials with ventilation to outside air.
10. A toilet (if feasible)